Dubrovnik City Guide: The Most Popular and Best Things to Do on the Croatian Coast

With lantern-lit limestone alleys, roaring bell towers and tawny rooftops, ancient Dubrovnik remains a stunning sight. But if it’s a show, tickets will sell out all year round – from May to September, you’ll find yourself crowding along the beautiful Straton (the main promenade of ivory limestone) and the towering city walls. Consider heading in the low season for a softer experience: mid-April and late September used to be the safest, although you may want to head there during the warmer months to fully enjoy the beautiful pebble beaches.

This walled old town (part of which dates back to the early 14th century) is surrounded by a cascading green coastline with cypress and olive trees, stone cottages and sea-view restaurants. Remember: bring the most comfortable sneakers or sandals for this city with steep steps and steep slopes. There are also two more modern suburbs nearby for accommodation and ample ferries to Dalmatia’s beautiful islands. But first, your list of cities: here are the highlights.

Do

City walls

The first view of Dubrovnik is visible from the ground, but once you climb the (rather large) steps to the top, you’ll see a completely different world. These well-preserved walls are 1,940 m long and date back to various periods from the 12th to the 17th century, peaking at about 25 m.

Stroll through bridge-like tops and climb several taller forts for 360-degree views of the city and coastline. Many tourists gather in the West Cape to visit Fort Lovrigenec in King’s Landing Red Castle in Game of Thrones, but there is also a lovely café in the sea-facing part. For this opportunity, it is worth waiting for a clear day – once you buy a ticket (which allows you to climb the city walls and enter the Foundry Museum and Lovlijenatzburg), you can use it for three days.

SRD cable car

Even more dazzling views. Take advantage of a clear afternoon as this 30-seat gondola glides smoothly up the slopes of the Srd. Heading during prime time is the most soothing, and as you ascend over the ant-sized Old Town, you can see the sun dancing over the Adriatic Sea. The cost is a bit high, but you can take a break at the top of the hill where there are observation decks, restaurants and shops with refreshments. The cable car is closed in bad weather, so check if the cable car is running before climbing the many steps to reach the ticket booth.

• EUR 27 (£23.50) for adults / €7 (£6) for children round trip

Lockroom

While sightseeing around town, you’ll see this forested hump island off the coast. It’s an energetic half-day or day trip – the perfect escape when the centre is overcrowded. If you like walking in pine forests, watching peacocks among the ruins, swimming in rugged bays, you can spend a few hours here. If the weather is warm enough, take a dip in the island’s “Dead Sea” – a verdant natural pool – before walking to the highest point, the 19th-century French fort. The cruise departs from the Old Town Harbor and tickets can be purchased at the tourist office under the bell tower at the east end of Stratton. For a more exciting kayak crossing – you can rent a boat from Kolorina Bay between Pile Gate and Lovrinjac.

Franciscan Monastery and Parish Chief’s Palace

Whether you’re a fan of medieval history or a budding Instagram star, strolling around the historic center is a pleasure (just look at the steps in each alley and see if anyone is posing). A guided tour or walking tour can unlock many small surprises for you – search the local guide association to find the most trustworthy guide. If you want to explore on your own, don’t miss the Franciscan Monastery and the Parish Governor’s Palace. The monastery, along with the ornate Onofrio Fountain nearby, survived the 1667 Dubrovnik earthquake. It also has a real curiosity: the oldest continuously operating pharmacy in the world, opened in 1317 (free to enter). The Doge’s Palace Museum is perfect for a comprehensive look at local history, from painted palanquins of nobles to the original keys to the eerie cells and city gates.

• Abbey: €4 (£3.50) for adults / €2 (£1.75) for children; Palace: €15 (£13) for adults / €8 (£7) for children

Remain

St Joseph’s

If you want to stay in the old town – the most beautiful but also the most crowded area – this boutique hotel converted from 16th-century houses is the place for you. The spacious stone-built rooms are decorated in tasteful cream and grey tones that retain their antique feel, and most rooms have a sofa, table and kitchenette, ideal for families in need of a refrigerator and microwave. The hotel does not have a restaurant, but a rich breakfast with cooked items, fruit and pastries can be served to your room.

Hotel Bellevue

If you’re looking for a holiday in the city, this cliffside 5-star hotel is sure to meet your needs, with a bird’s-eye view of the beautiful pebble beach and easy elevator access to the beach. The hotel features a beautiful spa, indoor pool and hot tub, stylish fine dining restaurant and beautiful grey rooms with the ambience of a beachfront villa. A short walk from the historic center is enough to provide a shelter away from the tour groups.

Hotel Excelsior

On the other side of the Old Town, just a 5-minute walk from the beautiful beach and city gates, is this magnificent ancient heroine who once hosted Queen Elizabeth I and Elizabeth Taylor for a visit to Dubrovnik. A huge indoor pool and spa area open onto a undulating outdoor deck and high-profile tide pool, all with stunning views of the Old Town. Head to the Piano Bar and the cave-like Prora restaurant for a romantic getaway back in time.

Hotel Porto

If you’re taking a ferry to the island, staying at this 30-star hotel in Gruz Harbour is very efficient, just a 10-minute walk from the old town or a 5-minute bus ride. The hotel may be located on the main road, but its stylish, modern monochrome rooms and comfortable terrace make it easy to walk <> minutes to the boats in port.

Eat

Holy Burek

Bakeries in Croatia are a godsend to enjoy a meal anytime, anywhere. Head to Holy Burek and grab a paper bag of cheese or spinach filo pastry magical burek, perfect for taking to the beach or dangling your legs on the harbour wall.

Barba

This reservation-free restaurant on the banks of the Stratun River is the perfect place to relax with whitebait platters, fish soup and paper tube squid. It’s usually packed with people, but you can always grab a takeaway and sit on the steps outside. One of the few austere restaurants in the city center that is not your average pizzeria.

Proto Fish Restaurant

If you’re looking for the city’s high-end seafood – oysters, lobsters and more – head to this famous Old Town restaurant in a pretty limestone alley. Sitting on the sidewalk was atmospheric both day and night, but there was also a hidden roof terrace that was very romantic (ask the staff if there was a room).

Portun

The elegant alleys and taverns of the Old Town abound, but they are not all winners. Located just off Stradun, this family-run restaurant offers a friendly and affordable menu. Small portions but beautifully presented – perfect for a stylish last night dinner.

Arsenal Restaurant

This magnificent café offers all Dalmatian classics such as black cuttlefish risotto, garlic mussel buzara and fish stew with warm service. You may first see the terrace facing Stradun, but walk through the interior to find the lovely back terrace with arches outlining the beautiful Old Port. Advance booking is required during high season.

Drink

Buzz Bar

There are plenty of tourist-friendly cafes to sit outside with a beer, surrounded by fine architecture, but this alley hangout is a frequented spot for locals. You’ll hear rock classics playing and see middle-aged men watching sports on TV. What’s the only takeaway? Smoking is allowed inside – oddly quaint, but perhaps an outdoor table is an option.

Buža I and II

Nestled within the city walls, across the rocks beneath the walls, these outdoor bars are popular with viewers and Instagrammers at sunset. While no longer a secret, they’re still worth the hype, offering casual drinks like bottled beer and plastic glasses of wine – I Bar is labeled “Bard Mala Buža” on Google Maps, while Bar II is “Buža Bar”.

Shop

Croatia’s local natural produce is the best gift to take home: olive oil, wine, honey, herbs and spices. On Sundays, there is a farmer’s market on Gundulićeva Poljana Square where you can buy goods directly from suppliers. Other days, try Uje or Note Bene.

No matter the time of year, this Catholic, handicrafts-filled area is a great place to pick up unique Christmas decorations. In most of the gift shops here, you’ll find traditional hanging discs resembling ice biscuits, as well as a festive camp Christmas shop open all year round.

For a deeper look, chat with the family owner of Bacan, a traditional embroidery workshop founded by Lena’s mother 50 years ago and still inherited by her. Tablecloths, coasters, tote bags and child-sized traditional robes are decorated with colourful, perfectly stitched patterns. You can find it at Prijeko ulica 6, near the Buzz Bar.

Experience modern Croatia at the Life Been to Kawa concept store near the East Gate of the Old Town (Ploče). Trendy ceramics and candles, trendy t-shirts and sunglasses, local food and popular Croatian sweets.

Architectural Highlights

Not only has the entire old town received UNESCO status, but you can also enjoy the view from the Large Onofrio’s Fountain, best when the city is quiet. Despite being built in the 1430s, it looks like new, with its contoured surfaces and spouts still overflowing drinking water, which is transported from the Umbra River through aqueducts.

FAQs

What currency do I need?

• Euro. Croatia joined Eurocurrency in January 2023.

What language do they speak?

• Croats, but most people also speak English very well. It would be helpful to try the friendly dobar dan (good afternoon), hvala (thank you) or bok (hi).

Should I tip?

• Yes, although not strictly. Most restaurants don’t add a service charge to their bill, and you’ll usually need to tip in cash;10-15% is enough.

How do I get around?

• Both the historic center and the nearby Banje beach are walkable and take two to three days to complete. If you’re looking to escape the busiest places, take a cheap city bus to Gruz Harbour, Lapad (where many hotels are located), Oyster Hotspot and the nearby coastal town of Cavtat. A one-way ticket costs €2 (£1.75) and you can pay on board or buy multiple tickets at the bus stop ticket booth. There are so many ignorant tourists here that taxi prices are often ridiculously high, so stick with a meter. More information can be found here.

What’s the best view?

• Fort Loverigenec (St. Lawrence), west of the city walls, is worth climbing. It sits on top of two beautiful bays that sparkle and sizzle on a clear day and offer stunning views of the walled city. All the way to the top of the hill, don’t forget to climb the last stairs to reach the top terrace (easy to miss). It’s included in your city wall ticket, so keep it even if you’re traveling alone.